09/9/18

Is Passion Out of Fashion? The Bad Boy Charms of McQueen & McEnroe.

CoiledCorset 2004, ShaunLeaneforMcQueen.

“I want you to be repulsed or exhilarated,” Alexander McQueen offers viewers of his collection in the documentary, McQueen. “If you leave without emotion, then I’m not doing my job properly. I don’t want you to walk out feeling like you’ve just had Sunday brunch.”

You could say that Alexander McQueen and John McEnroe – born a decade and an ocean apart, pursuing distinct talents, and playing them out in completely different arenas – shared a similar passion. A zeal to be real.

With the simultaneous release of documentaries on both enfants terribles, I decided to chase down the theory one steamy summer weekend in Manhattan. (Bad boys are always persons of interest to The Male Harem.)

I worried that McQueen would be a sycophantic fashionista homage but directors Ian Bonhote and Peter Ettedgui have produced a stirring elegy to McQueen’s troubled genius. The film deftly weaves the details of McQueen’s life – distant father, fiercely supportive mother, Savile Row apprenticeship, gigs at Givenchy and Gucci – with rapturous footage of his collections.

The couture wunderkind didn’t need the anointing of established fashion houses to claim his glory. His innate urgency to express himself projected him forward. From his earliest collections, cobbled together on a dime, to the theatrical extravaganzas of his later years McQueen’s vision was utterly personal.

RobotArt. CreativeCommons, Ivanna9867.

His pure, raw, and eventually destructive passion produced collections like The Hunger, Highland Rape and It’s a Jungle Out There. He pushed beyond the limit without ever looking contrived. When he is asked in the film who might take on the brand if he stepped away, he is sincerely flummoxed. There is no ego in his reply. Only McQueen can be McQueen.

As he polishes his public persona – shedding the scruffy working-class kid for the svelte fashion magnate – one senses his denouement. McQueen isn’t wired to fit a mold – fashion or otherwise. He doesn’t care what other people think about him, he says in the film, or even what he thinks about himself. What freedom. The freedom of a true artist. And also the loneliness.

With the death of his close friend and advocate, the relentlessly eccentric Isabella Blow, the oxygen begins to seep out of his life. The death of his mother marks the final emptiness. The darkness he’s held at bay can no longer be tolerated. On the eve of his mother’s funeral, he commits suicide by hanging. There is no air left to breathe.

Yet the film captures more of McQueen’s light than his darkness. When he is in play creating and producing his collections, his joy leaps off the screen. It draws those around him to his flame. Makes them complicit in his lurid vision. His models don’t just swagger haughtily down the runway. They push against mirrored barriers, wring out emotions, breasts exposed and vulnerable.

McEnroe in Play, ‘09 USOpen, CreativeCommons,EdwinMartinez.

Where McQueen battled with darkness, McEnroe seemed to thrive on it. The French documentary, In The Realm of Perfection suggests that he needed to create a hostile environment in order to conquer it. If only the film could have left him alone to prove it.

LA Times film critic Kenneth Turan wrote that this “idiosyncratic, metaphysical meditation on tennis, cinema, human behavior … at times risks being too pleased with itself for its own good.” You think?

In the opening scene, a meticulous demonstration of a hand gripping a tennis racket is repeated. And repeated. We are then marched through an archive of vintage tennis instruction films, stick-figure renditions of McEnroe’s moves, and a tutorial with frames actually titled “A” and “B”.

McEnroeBallet, ‘79Rotterdam, CreativeCommons,Anefo/Croes,RC.

The Sultanette’s Francophilia might be near-fatal but I’m not completely blinded by the glow the French have bestowed on civilization since the Sun King. I even allow that some concepts can be explored without employing the words “paradoxical” and “ambiguity” and the phenomenon of John McEnroe is one of them.

When the drumbeat of analyzing lands on the keen observation that he “plays on the edge of his senses” we are at last treated to un-narrated footage of McEnroe in play. Whatever you feel about the prince of impudence, it’s his individual ferocity that dominates the screen – his inscrutable game strategy, balletic form, obsession to win every stroke.

Alexander McQueen and John McEnroe remind us that daring to be yourself isn’t for the faint of heart. Whether you play it out on the court, the runway, or life’s runway, it takes grace and grit, incalculable risk, and Olympian resilience. If that’s too much for you, there’s always Sunday brunch.

07/13/18
Photo: TheSultanette

Sex, Nudity & Handsome Strangers: Venice Biennale, Sultanette Style

Photo: TheSultanette
San Marco, straight up.

I know what you’re thinking. Is it possible for The Sultanette to post anything without the mention of sex, sex, sex? Even when the subject is the esteemed 16th International Venice Biennale of Architecture?

To that I say, isn’t it time we take sex out of the gutter? That we give it credit for more than scratching an itch in the libido? Admit that getting physical might release us from the tyranny of our brains? From those hidebound convictions, selfish inhibitions, and pious sentiments that sabotage our ability to live originally? If you don’t think architecture does that, read on.

Photo: TheSultanette
Contemplating the Doge.

The adventure began innocently when a fellow architecture enthusiast invited me to join a private tour to my favorite lagoon for the Biennale. This year’s theme, Freespace, was enticing. Its intent, according to directors Yvonne Farrell and Shelley McNamara, was to encourage “new ways of seeing the world, of inventing solutions … for the well being and dignity of each citizen of this fragile planet.” And our tour’s organizer, Anna Canepa of Art Tours, would be the ideal guide for exploring it. An art historian and connoisseur, she was connected, resourceful, and wily as a doge.

Photo: TheSultanette
View from The Sultanette’s window.

First treat was the scene below my hotel window – a slender canal straddled by bridges, gondolas gliding by, the whelps of gondoliers as they rounded the bend echoing in the narrow passage. Over the next two days, a private guide introduced us to the Biennale’s two main venues, the Arsenale and the Giardini, with the idea that we could return on our own recognizance to delve into areas of particular interest.

At the Giardini, home of the first Venice Biennale of Art in 1895, we strolled among the thirty permanent international pavilions built on marshland that had been transformed into gardens by Napoleon in the early nineteenth century. (It was the least he could do for pawning the Venetians off to Austria.)

Photo: TheSultanette
Entering the Arsenale.

At the Arsenale, we entered through a swaying curtain of hemp – an homage to its early rope manufacturing. The massive space had produced Venice’s trading vessels from 1104 until Napoleon’s conquest in 1797. Now it was dedicated to the Biennale directors’ curated installations.

“The role of architecture is to give shelter to our bodies and to lift our spirits,” they had stated in the manifesto. The breadth and originality of responses rose to the occasion. Beyond corporate-posturing or patriotic chauvinism they were ingenious, energetic, and earnest. The intent was palpable.

Photo: TheSultanette
Chandelier at Schiavon.

Turned on yet? No worries, the naughty parts are yet to come. But first, a private tour of Peggy’s place (do I need to say, Guggenheim?) plus side trips to Padua and the audacious glassworks at Schiavon Vetreria Artistica on the island of Murano. And did I say cocktails at the palazzo with the countess? (If I revealed her name I’d be at the bottom of the lagoon, but I can tell you there was a doge in the family).

As intoxicating as the pitcher of Bellinis served by the countess was the Punta della Dogana Museum. Originally the Sea Customs House completed in 1682, the building had now been transformed by the brilliant hand of Japanese architect Tadao Ando, to showcase the Francois Pinault Collection. If you concentrated, you could even convince yourself you felt the floor sway ever so slightly to the shifting Venetian tides. A perfect reflection of the current show, “Dancing with Myself.”

 The museums’s open, airy galleries featured artists including Cindy Sherman, Gilbert & George, and Maurizio Cattelan. But what for me best expressed the exhibition’s title was a looped film, presented on a wall-mounted screen, of a Black woman dancing nude throughout various museum galleries. The dancer was artist, Lili Reynaud-Dewar. Her strong, graceful silhouette brought sensual relief to the stark gallery walls. Her nubile movements flirted with the frozen artifacts on display. Reynaud-Dewar dances in homage to Josephine Baker, our museum guide told me. She believes that art is about taking personal risks, and about blurring the boundaries between personal and public space.

Photo: TheSultanette
Cruising at Spazio Punch.

Fitting foreplay to the exhibition at the Cruising Pavilion at Spazio Punch titled “Gay sex, architecture and cruising cultures.” While not officially affiliated with the Biennale, curators Alexandre Mateos, Rasmus Myrup, Octave Perrault, Charles Teyssou sought to use the idea of public sex to challenge the full meaning of the “Freespace” theme.

The show was housed on three floors of nearly pitch black galleries, visible mostly by flashlight. Soundtracks included the beloved Sylvester, RIP. Themes increased in shock value as you ascended, concluding with a film I dare not describe or your firewalls would explode. At its May 24 launch party, drinks and poppers were served.

Photo: TheSultanette
Welcome to the art of Cruising.

As Sangeeta Singh-Kurtz, described it in her Quartzy review, “Keep Calm And Cruise On” the show takes cruising from “deviant and dangerous” to “thrilling and affirmative.” But as the curators suggest, is cruising now a lost art, replaced by Apps like Grindr? If so, can high-tech ever replace the high art of a sultry glance?

Vatican to the rescue! Our final stop was the Pavilion of the Holy See, the Vatican’s first-ever Biennale contribution. In a wooded area on the island of San Giorgio Maggiore, architectural historian Francesco Dal Co has curated ten chapels with the purpose of showing “how the chapel can exist as isolated building, free from the attachments of specific religious sites.”

Photo: TheSultanette
Venice and her sea.

Perhaps the most sacred of these was “View” by Norman Foster of Foster+Partners. Its goal was “to create a small space diffused with dappled shade … focused on the water and sky beyond – a sanctuary.” That view was the true star of the Biennale – the brilliant, persistent romance between Venice and her sea. Are we now destroying this fragile bond? It will take more than a Pope’s prayers to save it.

On the final evening of this magical tour, we were guests at a private dinner in a 16th century palazzo on the Grand Canal. Hors d’oeuvres on the terrace, risotto impeccably al dente in the dining room, pleasantly-aged brandy in the parlor, exceptional hosts, intriguing conversation. What more could you ask of Venice … except a chance meeting with a handsome stranger at the Doge’s Palace. Check!

Photo: TheSultanette
Venice in the afternoon.

It happened on our one free afternoon. I had found a cool, quiet corner inside a café – protected from the army of tourists milling outside the Doge’s palace – to work on the book that will, if The Sultanette survives it, be required reading. After several uninterrupted hours and a Compari, I strolled outside to the water’s edge, thoughts of my first trip to Venice as a young bride.

I was snapping a photo when a man I’d noticed eating ice cream nearby, took it upon himself to recommend the best angle for capturing the light. He was tall, elegantly aged, carefully dressed. His accent was from another part of the world. As we spoke, he took each bite of ice cream from the small, wooden spoon with polite fervor, then excused himself to dispose of the cup, and returned. “Shall we walk?” he said.

Photo: TheSultanette
San Marco after dark.

In the Piazza San Marco, we exchanged email addresses and connected on WhatsApp. He was leaving the following day and so I agreed to meet him in San Marco after dinner. Did the conversation continue to the whelping of gondoliers outside my hotel window? Of course not. And if it had?

“The role of architecture is to give shelter to our bodies and to lift our spirits.”

The 16th International Venice Biennale continues until 25 November. And if you’re tempted to experience more of The Sultanette’s Venice, see previous posts: What Happens in Venice, Stays in Venice, plus book reviews  – A Venice Valentine and Venice Anyone? – of the seductive Dream of Venice series published by Bella Figura.

 

 

 

11/18/17

Adultery Goes Avant-Garde In Brooklyn

Brooklyn Bridge Black Tie, Avantgardemusicnyc.

“It’s a dance performance based on the seventeenth century diary of a philanderer!” said Dr. Zhivago (Male Harem member pseudonym). “Right up The Sultanette’s alley!”

I may have philandered in an alley or three but I’m skeptical of multi-media performances. Avant-garde by nature is a contrivance. A cheeky departure from the expected. To be boldly contrived and remain artistically honest is a fine balance and I’d seen enough avant flops to prove it.

But 17c – the latest offering from Big Dance Theater at BAM’s (Brooklyn Academy of Music) Next Wave Festival had my attention. The company has been described as genre-defying (New Yorker) and genre-exploding (The New York Times). You have to love a company that creates a piece called This Page Left Intentionally Blank (2016).

Good afternoon, ladies!, Thomas Rowlandson.

Since 1991, founders Annie-B Parson and Paul Lazar have been converging dance, music, text and visual design into provocative performance pieces infused with sources as varied as Mark Twain, Flaubert, and Euripides. Through all this they’ve managed to be married. For thirty years! Who better to contemplate philandering?

“I’m in!” I told Dr. Zhivago. I would join him and the divine Ms. Lara (to continue the theme) his recent bride. (The Sultanette loves to marry off her harem members to deserving women especially when champagne flows at the wedding.)

Pepys preps for BAM premiere?, John Hayls.

The author of the seventeenth century diary that inspires 17c is Samuel Pepys – famous for recording both the history of that raucous period and his impassioned dalliances. Big Dance’s performance sprinkles the narration of his diary entries with modern jargon – refreshing as a device to spike the mannerly prose though frustrating if you crave historical accuracy. “But this isn’t a history class, it’s art!” the avant-garde cop whispered in my ear. So I ignored the urge for authenticity and opened my mind to the play of past and present.

Case in point, Lazar’s riveting fireside reflections (the fireplace flickers from a video screen) on chasing down the hired (and soon fired) maid he has a hankering for. His full-fledged male-entitled justification to “The Dance Master “ – not dancing “but talking!”

Throughout the performance, the set pieces are dimensionalized by the company’s fine dancers with a smart fluid style that plays to the sophisticated wit of the narration. A dance interlude that moves languorously from bed to floor, simultaneously projected on a backdrop is especially enticing. Even the wigs and foofy embellishments befit a seventeenth century romp with a whiff of twenty-first century chic that could hold court in any downtown club scene.

Escaping 21c, 2007Terreform.

Not that our ménage would be clubbing later. Dr. Z had a film shoot early next morning, Lara an interview, and yours truly another day of flagellation – the writing variety – on a Sultanette diary of sorts that monopolizes my attention when I’m not on Brooklyn capers with the harem.

But we all agreed that this excellent escape to the seventeenth century was worth staying up past our bedtime, especially considering the state of the present century’s affairs. Anybody interested in time travel?

17c is performing at BAM from November 14 through 18. Ooops! You missed it! But the award-winning Big Dance Theater has performed from Belgium to Brazil and their next multi-fangled event is sure to tickle your avant-garde fantasy. Watch for them. And check out BAM’s Next Wave Festival until December 16.

09/29/17

How to Shatter the Glass Ceiling: Sprichst du Deutsch?

ByProjectManhattan(Own Work),CreativeCommons.

She’s worked with dudes named Wolfgang, Helmut, and Vladimir. They’ve been known to call her boring, a beta-female, and clueless. She doesn’t get mad. She gets their jobs.

She’s learned to deflect bullies and has overcome an urge to burst into tears. She was once shot at by the Taliban in a helicopter over Afghanistan and stayed cool as a cucumber.

This boring beta-babe has been in the limelight of late. Five biographies have just been published in Dutch, German, French and English.

Angela’s Office,Jurgen Matern,CreativeCommons.

As for age discrimination, at sixty-three she is in no imminent danger of losing her job. Last Sunday Angela Merkel was re-elected Chancellor of Germany – a title she has shrewdly retained since 2005.

Her path was highlighted in a recent piece by Simon Kuper, “The Making of Angela Merkel” (FT 16 September/17 September), shared here.

“More coffee, Honey?” KSmrq, CreativeCommons.

In case you think she’s just another vacuous, narcissist politician (sorry, that position has been filled) consider her grasp of integral calculus, academic honors in Russian and maths, and her quantum chemist husband. (Your college algebra probably won’t qualify you for their breakfast conversation.)

As Kuper tells it, Merkel’s shift from academia to politics began after the Berlin Wall came down and Chancellor Helmut Kohl “put her in his cabinet as a token female East German.” Helmut may have reconsidered calling her “clueless” when she finessed the job of chancellor from his alpha-buddy Wolfgang Schauble who now works for her as Finance Minister.

Best to invest for the bedroom.

Speaking of narcissist politicians, even after the spurned handshake by the President of the United States, a glad-hander if there ever was one, she has been dubbed by many, the new leader of the Free World. (Pres can be grateful that those reputedly tiny fingers avoided her resolute grip.)

Merkel’s unique talent for glass-shattering came to mind recently when a girlfriend aced a job at a New York investment banking firm. Even as the ink was drying, a woman she knew at the firm called to offer advice – not about marketing analytics but concerning fashion tips. Clothing: not showy. Accessories: not many. Shoes: never Manolo.

Dress for Success. Jean-Jacques Lequeu,1794,BibliothequeNationaledeFrance.

With due respect for deferring to the corporate culture (best to save the vinyl cat suit for afternoon tea) are we misplacing our priorities? Sensible shoes aside, I would guess that identifying the appropriate chancellor’s uniform is a footnote in Angela’s playbook. So what does she know better than color-coordinating and integral calculus? Herself.

“Every great politician has a core,” Kuper writes, “one or two beliefs she won’t trade away.” For Angela, who spent her first thirty-five years negotiating life on the other side of The Wall, her core values rest in “the individual’s freedom to make his or her own life.” How many politicians, or even real humans for that matter, are willing to risk their job for what? Values?

Alambrada,CreativeCommons.

Merkel’s test was the refugee crisis. Kuper cites an anecdote from Matthew Qvortrup’s recent biography concerning her decision to allow in a million refugees in 2015. It wasn’t popular, especially after violence erupted, and had begun to erode her opinion poll approval ratings.

In October 2015 at the EU summit, Germany was advised by Hungary’s Prime Minister Victor Orban to build a fence. “Merkel let a silence fall, then said, ‘I lived a long time behind a fence. It is not something I wish to do again.’” Perhaps we could shatter more ceilings by tearing down fences. You can even do that in a pair of Manolos.

08/21/17
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The Art of Intimacy: The Sultanette Does Dallas

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The Kiss, Brancusi, c1908, Nasher Sculpture Ctr.

Can The Sultanette be a Dallas Cowboy Cheerleader when she grows up? Wearing barely more than white boots and a smile as big as Texas they’re worth the price of admission to AT&T Stadium. (BTW there’s a football game there, too.) But news flash!

Next time you’re in Dallas, before you join that 100,000-plus crowd to watch those buxom babes on the biggest Jumbotron in the NFL, you might take a detour to the Nasher Sculpture Center. As The Sultanette learned on a recent trip, this temple of tranquility containing one of the finest collections of twentieth century sculpture in the world, offers food for the heart, soul and libido.

Do the names Picasso, Giacometti, Matisse, Henry Moore and Miro ring a bell? To this permanent collection, the Nasher adds featured shows. I was treated to an exhibition of works in glass by Roni Horn of Iceland and New York City – pastel pods weighing 10,000 pounds a piece that look like giant sorbet molds glowing from within.

Photo: TheSultanette
Glass forms, Roni Horn, Nasher Sculpture Ctr.

Horn ascribes offbeat quotes rather than titles to the fluid forms to give the viewer room for individual interpretation. “I don’t like titles that – if you don’t read them, you don’t get the piece,” she says. “I want a title that can be an entrance to something but never an explanation.”

Gazing into one of the pods as if it were a crystal ball, I considered our obsession for full disclosure in the pursuit of intimacy. Might our authentic (to use the tired term) selves be more fully revealed through exploration rather than explanation? If so, you might look at editing those Match profiles.

Photo: TheSultanette
Large Seated Nude, Matisse, 1952, Nasher Sculpture Ctr.

While we’re on the subject of full disclosure, Matisse’s bronze “Large Seated Nude,” was next on my Nasher tour. All sensuality in bronze, she conveys both gravitas and insouciance. The visitor learns here that Matisse read poetry every morning for inspiration. It was oxygen for his art, he said, “just as when you leap out of bed [and] you fill your lungs with fresh air.”

Thoroughly oxygenated now, I leapt to Anish Kapoor’s “In Search of the Mountain 1” a jewel-toned funnel, richly saturated in sapphire-blue pigment. Kapoor‘s work is informed by his approach to myth. “What is important is not looking at and reading myths as an observer,” he says, “but living them.”

Photo: TheSultanette
In Search of the Mountain 1, Anish Kapoor, 1984, Nasher Sculpture Ctr.

I peered down the center of the funnel. What mythical magical mountain would be revealed at the other end? Even better, the sight line narrows to a distant, pinprick of light beckoning possibility.

Intimacy, tranquility, possibility. As I strolled among the galleries, bathed in the delicate light created by Renzo Piano’s glass walls and vaulted glass ceiling, I wondered if this might be the Nasher’s most precious offering. The impulse to slow down, reflect, have a conversation with these still, silent forms.

Photo: TheSultanette
Hostess, de Kooning, 1973, Nasher Sculpture Center

Can the impressive Dallas Museum of Art down the street or the dozen other major American art museums offer this? When we join the throngs at blockbuster exhibitions do we lose the awareness that our relationship with a work of art is singular and intimate? Might we better reserve our crowd time for football stadiums?

The secret to Nasher’s magic is surely in its founders. Raymond and Patsy Nasher were not interested in collecting trophies to demonstrate their wealth. They explored the medium, engaged with the artists, embraced a vision to share art with the pubic.

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Squares With Two Circles, 1963, Nasher Sculpture Ctr.

That passion reflected their partnership. A film at the museum sums up Raymond’s enduring love for his wife after she died. Taking the podium at an outside museum event, he begins by telling the assembled that he had put Patsy in charge of the weather for that day. Then looking up he adds, “And as you notice, there is not a cloud in the sky.”

Perfect segue to the sculpture garden designed by landscape architect Peter Walker. There, perched at the edge of a pool dotted with fountains, I came upon Barbara Hepworth’s dual bronze blocks titled “Squares with Two Circles.” Each circle presented two discreet portraits of the garden behind it. One was earthbound, framing a bed of flowers below weeping willow fronds. The other soared with leafy trees and sky.

Photo: TheSultanette
Glass form, Roni Horn, Nasher Sculpture Ctr.

I walked from left to right and around to the other side. Wherever I stopped, I was treated to a fresh perspective of the world behind the circles – reminded with each new set of portraits that the way I look at the world depends upon the place I choose to stand. Then I looked up, beyond the bronze slabs to the blue above. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky.

Eventually you have to abandon the Nasher for the crowded world outside. But is it entirely the one you left behind? And isn’t that why we escape to art? To leave our square lives and play in someone else’s circle for awhile … the painter, poet, sculptor, curator who gives us another way to look at the world besides our own? Makes you want to put on a pair of white boots and a smile.